You come to Venice, you go here.  That’s all there is to it.  The air smells of books and old paper.  You walk inside there are cats lounging about.

Libreria Acqua Alta is owned by this dear fellow – Frizzo Luigi.  An eccentric quirky cat & book lover.  He’s been here for 10 years and has amassed a mountain of books, magazines, maps and hoards of other ephemera.  Some of the books have been cleverly cemented together to form book walls.

Gondolas have been repurposed to hold books.

If you watched my Honey I’m Home video you already know what I bought here.

It was a crystal clear day.  I sat for awhile out on the balcony of my apartment letting the sun do its lovely work.

After I left Castello, I headed towards Cannaregio.  HERE is a great article on the area.

I think I mentioned yesterday that the vaporettos are no longer empty.  They are jam packed with people who are here for New Years.  When I return to Venice some winter I will come a week earlier  and stay till the 24th or so of December.  I cannot imagine how busy spring, summer, and fall are!  It must be a real crush of people.

HERE is another book bindery that I think would be worth a long visit.    I had read about it and wanted to visit, but this particular location was closed.  Paolo Olbi is a master craftsman and the paper he uses in his journals & stationary is UNIQUE in Venice.

He has some fabulous large cards that set my heart to racing!  Unfortunately this location was closed.  There is another in the Rialto area, but I’ll wait till next time in Venice to indulge.

Burano was quiet, bright, alive.

I wandered slowly through the streets & passages.  So much to see.  I wanted to be outside in the warm sunshine so I skipped the museum.  Didn’t go to Torcello either.  Another time.

I stopped at Al Gatto Nero Burano for lunch.   Thanks Erin for the tip!

Which.  I shared with my friend orange cat.

He is giving himself a bath after a hearty fish dinner.  He snuck in the front door when someone came inside the restaurant and came directly to my table.  Hello kitter pants!

I was captivated by the bright colors.  All the little details from the window latches to the shutters and curtains.

Everything fascinated me.  The cyclamens were lush and full in all the windows.  So pretty!

This shopkeeper has the right idea.

The vaporettos on the way there were crowded.  Sardine crowded.  I  stood the whole time pressed against the side and looked out at the water of the lagoon shimmering under the sun.  On the way back I found a seat inside.

Here’s a little video I made of my trip.  Sorry, not a bit of lace!  You can read more about Burano HERE.

I stumbled upon this jewel of a bookbinding/paper store today in Campo dei Frari.  My friend Suzanne had told me not to miss it.  Anselmo Polliero makes silk screened and wood block printed papers, binds books, and does restoration work on ancient books.

The store has been in his family for 90 years.  He follows in his father and grandfather’s footsteps here.  I enjoyed chatting with him a bit.   He is quiet and introverted, but was open to satisfying a few of my curiosities.

I spent a small fortune in here!  Since I’ve hardly bought a thing other than postcards and the other 2 sheets of paper I felt properly justified in getting a generous bundle of luscious paper.

I am VERY reticent to film inside stores, but with Anselmo’s gracious permission I made this little video.

Overall I have found Venice extremely clean.  I’ve seen very little graffiti compared to other cities I’ve visited which surprised me as I’ve heard others mention it.  Maybe it’s just the stars in my eyes, but I haven’t noticed that much.

Also the streets are kept spic & span.

There are green plants flourishing on winter balconies.  I noticed a lot today in particular.

I even passed a park today.

And a few tiny gardens.

Lots of people on the vaporettos today.  It’s almost New Years.  Tourist numbers increase at this time I am told.  But still I don’t think they come close to summer’s boom.  In my neighborhood of San Barnaba and many other places I strolled today there were not many people around.

I have more to tell you about some incredible places I visited today, but I am determined to get to bed by 11:30 so I can get up early and get myself off to Burano.  I can’t wait for the long boat ride.  I do love sitting outside in the very back of the vaporetto and looking out at the translucent green water.

Oh Venice, you are treating me like a queen, or should I say contessa.  big happy sigh.

i want to take you down the Grand Canal a bit.  c’mon!

Hey you! Good morning from Venice. Here’s a short little video of the beginning stages of the travel journal. It’s rainy and cool today so I’m snuggled up with some Venetian goodies from a nearby bakery and a hot cup of coffee. Today is official piddle day until I tidy up and go out for dinner this evening. I like to try a new restaurant/osteria in the San Barnaba area of Dorsoduro each night. Here are a few things I’ve tried:

burrata caprese salad below with a spoon of fresh pesto.  mmmm

My favorite so far has been the rosemary glazed filet on a bed of rocket. Tender and delicious. My eyes were crossed as I ate it.
The pork and mashed potatoes in a pepper cream sauce – is it just me or were these little mounds in the shapes of animals?
Both of these osterias were small homey places. Places I felt very comfortable in by myself. Except in one of them I did get wedged into a small table which I had to wedge myself out of 90 minutes later when the restaurant filled around me. Which. I did. Twice. Dropped my scarf next to my chair and had to double back through the crowd. Think: bull in china shop. But all’s well that ends well and no one got hurt.

If you’ve ever wondered if there is a place on earth where you might procure a yeasty donut the size of your head…let me assure you THERE IS.

And it is mere footsteps from my apartment.

A renowned bakery here in Venice called Pasticceria dal Nono Colussi in Dorsoduro on calle Lunga.
The name of this sublime delight is their specialty Foccaccia Veneziana. If you’re looking for this bakery there isn’t a sign outside the shop. But if you are here in December just look for the cookie garland and giant donuts in the window.
The taste is doughy yeasty buttery mildly sweet melt-in-your-mouth YUM.

I feel obligated to take one for the team and try everything.  for YOU.  I’m doing it for you.  Because I’m selfless like that.

The strawberries must come from southern Italy.  They are delicious.

Slightly lemony, mildly sweet, shortbready.