I stumbled upon this jewel of a bookbinding/paper store today in Campo dei Frari. My friend Suzanne had told me not to miss it. Anselmo Polliero makes silk screened and wood block printed papers, binds books, and does restoration work on ancient books.
The store has been in his family for 90 years. He follows in his father and grandfather’s footsteps here. I enjoyed chatting with him a bit. He is quiet and introverted, but was open to satisfying a few of my curiosities.
I spent a small fortune in here! Since I’ve hardly bought a thing other than postcards and the other 2 sheets of paper I felt properly justified in getting a generous bundle of luscious paper.
I am VERY reticent to film inside stores, but with Anselmo’s gracious permission I made this little video.
Overall I have found Venice extremely clean. I’ve seen very little graffiti compared to other cities I’ve visited which surprised me as I’ve heard others mention it. Maybe it’s just the stars in my eyes, but I haven’t noticed that much.
Also the streets are kept spic & span.
There are green plants flourishing on winter balconies. I noticed a lot today in particular.
I even passed a park today.
And a few tiny gardens.
Lots of people on the vaporettos today. It’s almost New Years. Tourist numbers increase at this time I am told. But still I don’t think they come close to summer’s boom. In my neighborhood of San Barnaba and many other places I strolled today there were not many people around.
I have more to tell you about some incredible places I visited today, but I am determined to get to bed by 11:30 so I can get up early and get myself off to Burano. I can’t wait for the long boat ride. I do love sitting outside in the very back of the vaporetto and looking out at the translucent green water.
Oh Venice, you are treating me like a queen, or should I say contessa. big happy sigh.
Oh man hold onto my purse I would say to myself in that lovely shop with the lovely man and the lovely Italian melody, because the money will fly fly out fly fly away. Paper Lover Paradise, yes? And every time you use the paper you will think of that moment so well worth it, yes?
Mary Ann and friends here, iIn my going-through-my-stuff days, I came across this article I had saved from 2010 NYTimes article, “Venice in the Winter.”
“I HADN’T been back to Venice in years when I found myself there on assignment. It was November; the city’s scattered trees had begun to turn brown. The light, as always, was beyond compare and there was a watery chill in the air. I loved it immediately…”
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/11/28/travel/28Venice.html?_r=5&adxnnl=1&pagewanted=all&adxnnlx=1354997290-wOVm8YOtBN5G3x/53X4uWQ&
You will love Burano!! All the colourful houses. A delightful little restaurant on one of the side canals called something Gato Negri- or Gato something – with a great picture of a black cat on the sign. Delicious langosinto. And don’t miss the lace museum, it’s in the back of one of the houses and is a real treat. It’s been so lovely revisiting Venice with you. Margot and I went in February after Carnavelle several years ago, and it was equally uncrowded. Cold – but no lines, no crowds and the canals were sweet-smelling and clear. Your posts and videos are almost like being there again.
Erin in Morro Bay
officially swooning now…….how could you NOT buy everything your little arms could carry from that incredible shop?
What a great little shop. I love the sound of the paper flapping its wings…
Your friend S was right to insist, Contessa! What a richly stuffed shop. I don’t think he cares if he sells some things. He just loves to make them and live among them, eh.
I was wondering about green-ness there, and here it is to behold. The park looks large. Like a Proper park, on Real Land..!
I hope there are trumphant zzz’s drifting from the soft bed overthere, now.
I’m happy to say I just completed my front cover. Savouring a slow-making, as-and-when, engagement with this overhere.
Happy Boating+Burano day!
xxxj
oh how i loved this little clip of the bookbinder’s shop. and all of that beautiful paper! swoon…..and is that robert murolo in the background?? another swoon.
i think that you are there at exactly the right time of year. what a great birthday present (early).
lovely music, lovely man, lovely shop. divine paper and paper sounds. a great view out his window. Is he hiring I wonder. I’m ready…I’ll even sweep the floor.
Yeah! Yeah! You found it!! I’m so happy. He is a wonderful man, isn’t he? Just the way you described him. His mother was lovely, too, in their other store. I hope both his mother & father are well. I met his father once.
I forgot to tell you that besides journals & paper, I also bought some beautiful marbled folders with grosgrain ribbon to match the last time I was there. I saw them in your video – to his left, top box on the table. I’m so happy you found it when it was open! It’s my favorite. Looks like he has a new awning. Don’t you love how the walls & bookshelves are covered in their papers?
My only concern for you is that you are not finding time enough to make frequent prosecco & cichetti stops on this trip. Tomorrow, toast your way from one end of Burano to the other. Wish I could buy you a spritz! Thanks for the great video.
xoxo,s
PS That’s Padre Pio (gray hair & little beard) on one of your little oval souvenirs from San Marco. I almost visited his monastery once when I was very close to it in the Gargano but I just couldn’t fake being a pilgrim.
What a treat to see a beautiful old shop like Sig.Polliero’s. A little paper heaven.
Hope it is thriving.Love that all the walls, cabinets and shelves are covered in paper. Thanks for overcoming your reticence to film in a store and sharing this gem with us! Cannot blame you for spending a small fortune, would have done the same.
LOVED the little shop, oh so very, very delightful…so happy you gave us a quick peek. So generous of him to allow you to. I know it’s a place I’d want to visit. I bet you got some amazing Italian papers. Adore the twisty paths you’re taking, it all looks so very inviting. DH just wandered by and stopped to watch the video and promised that some day we’d go there…he means well, his heart is in the right place even if it’s not in the budget. In the mean time, I’m enjoying this right here all so much.xxooss
Drooling – want – that – shop – Thank you – xx
LOVED the video from the paper store – thoose paper sheets looks awesome.
diane thats the very article i read back in the summer that made me want to come to venice for christmas!
Totally drooling over that little bookbinding/paper shop!!! Thanks so much for the video!!!
oh that paper/book arts store was sensational! Last summer I met a similar artisan in Gubbio,she is a fantastic leather bookbinder, she was thrilled to talk about her education in the book arts. (Gubbio is in Perugia/Umbria).
You, too are giving these Italian Artists a gift in return by asking them about their livelihood….too many tourists walk into these shops & are outside in 2 minutes. Your purchases will give you many happy memories beyond the costs …. enjoy Murano! I can’t wait to see those videos/photos, too. Holly
Dear Lovely Mary Ann
I have been overwhelmed by various visitors and family expectations, but now, at very long last, i have the time to catch up with your daily posts.
Last night on my iPad in the middle of the night, I have immersed myself in your daily doings.
You have empowered me to think of some solo travel of my own and so I have cleared away all the old turkey and mince pie mess and reinstated my Table as my art table. I am going to spend the rest of today making my book. I may only travel in my head, or I may actually Travel to Somewhere with it, but Im under starter’s orders and I cant wait.
I wish you so very well for the remainder of your visit.
thank you for your generosity in sharing all of this with me!
KLUNK – jaw hitting the floor! Oh such loveliness here from the little shop, papers, to your strolling path. Oh my!
Anselmo Polliero’s shop is magnificent! I could take up residence there. As long as someone would bring me tea every now and then, I could just stay there for ever. Or at least for a long time. On second thought, I think I’d like to split my time equally between Anselmo’s and the bookstore from your previous post. With stops at the restaurants. All of them. Come to think of it, maybe I really need an apartment in Venice. You’re spoiling me…
Lovely photos and video, like every day! Was that beautiful music playing in his shop or did you add it. It is one of my favorite traditional Neapolitan songs.