at sundown the plane flew low over the italian alps which were blanketed in snow. craggy peaks, deep valleys, rivers and roads like threads on a map. the setting sun hit the tops of the peaks and they looked like molten lava or the insides of hot coals. i looked and looked and looked. straight down. out that little airplane window to the white earth below.
than the plane banked right and descended into a thick cushion of fog. the airport was barely visible in the dusk. i followed everyone off the planeinto a sleepy still airport. our plane looked like the only arrival and from what i could tell there were mostly italian passengers
picked up my luggage and followed the little signs outside for water taxi and water bus. it was darker now. i zipped on my raincoat and wrapped my scarf around my neck, but it really wasn’t cold. mists swirled through the streets. i pulled my little carry-on and bigger suitcase behind me. clickety clack down the brick path. on and on and on. there was not a single solitary other soul walking down this dimly lit path and i considered whether or not i was going the wrong way. i stopped to ask a parked taxi which way to the water taxi and he said, “no water taxi tonight. too much fog. only water bus. keep going” whaaaa?
i kept going. walking further into the night. still not passing anyone! it was a good night for some detective work and i wondered if there were any murder mysteries i could lend a hand in solving. little signs cropped up. “water taxi 3 minutes” “water taxi 2 minutes” but for some reason it took me triple the time! finally a few chattering italians passed me going in the opposite direction. i kept walking. at last i came to the water taxi docks. they were all empty. desolate. water lapping up onto the wood. my instructions had been to catch a water taxi then tell the driver to call the apartment greeter who would then leave to meet me. uh oh. i could see that wasn’t going to happen tonight. i kept walking. saw a little ticket booth and a boat that looked like it might be a vaporetto. ALILAGUNA to the rescue! an airport shuttle. bought my ticket and while i was at it asked the nice woman to please call evelyn and tell her i’m on my way. which she did without even hesitating. then she said, “hurry madam or the boat will leave without you.” i rushed off toward the shuttle boat. a man hefted my 2 bags on board and down i stepped. he indicated that i was to step down into the cabin which i did. away we went motoring off into the pitch black night. i was the ONLY passenger!
listen, if you want to arrive in venice under a shroud of fog, truly by yourself, and feel like you’ve stepped into the pages of a venetian murder mystery then i urge you to arrive on a tuesday. in december. at night.
this story could keep going on and on like that little brick path. and i could tell you about evelyn. and the apartment. and my first italian meal of a takeout eggplant pizza. and the hot cup of tea i’m sipping now while i write this. or the big candles i lit on the table. or how i can see out the window to a bit of canal. but i’m tired. sleep is calling to me.
tomorrow i have a brave new world to explore.
xo,
girl reporter on assignment in venice!
Happy DAY!!!! We’ve landed. OMG those flight photos are freakin amazing Mary Ann and your apt looks so super cozy. I couldn’t be more happy if I was standin’ right next to you. I can see you’ve already had a fine adventure and know it’s only going to get better and better. Sweet Dreams I’ll be waiting right here when tomorrow arrives.
the sunset on the snow is gorgeous. And I would be completely freaking out that there wasn’t anyone in sight and walking and walking in search of water transport. You are so brave!
oh how i know that walk to the water taxi … and it is long after a long flight .
glad you made it safely . i can’t wait till you are out and about .
xxoo
Alone. At night. In the fog. In a foreign country. This plus your recent air detour in Mexico–well, a few more of these episodes, and you’re going to become a 1st class adrenaline-adventure junkie! My crystal ball predicts sky diving the Himalayas in your future. Then hiking down from wherever you land…
Divine. This is the best 58 bucks I’ve ever spent.
I relived the opening of our recent trip to Venice through your first post!! That is a really long walk and I can’t even imagine it in the fog and alone. Your Alilaguna ride, as the only passenger, was just as good as a water taxi and sooooo much cheaper. I’m going to love being along with you on this winter visit!
Hah, I wondered if you were going to arrive in the evening. You are braver then I am, I would have peed my pants probably… Especially with the fog and the dark. Glad you found a taxi. Now go sleep for 26 hours and then go out and explore! You must be an hour ahead of me now instead of 8 hours behind. Have sweet watery foggy dreams… Thanks for letting us know that you arrived safely! Love your mountain shots…
Ahhh and the story begins! So happy that nothing untowards happened and you made it safely to your destination.
Aloha, Kate
Have a super time! You are one brave soul: Dark and alone! I would have been crying
Thanks for sharing your adventure… Can’t wait to see Venice through your eyes!
Good to know you are safely installed – and arriving tired in the evening is the best way to beat jetlag – should be all gone when you wake up IN VENICE!
Oh Mary Ann. If I didn’t love you before, this post would’ve pushed me over the edge. I love it. Love the pictures of mountains tipped in pink. Love the pictures you wrote in words about the fog and the night. Seriously. This post alone was worth the money! I already love being on this adventure!
Lovely pics, splendid stories already, and a comfy-looking nest for you finally. May you dream deep indeed, and snooze very well.
It’s good to be along with you, girl reporter.
xxxj
Dearest M.A. —
a word of wisdom garnered from my very own trip to Venice: WATCH WHERE YOU STEP! as in, going around corners, looking up and enthralled by the crumbling multi-colored buildings, the light reflecting in myriad undertones on the glass of the windows, I nearly pitched right into more than one canal. (no fences, Babee) …
also, as you’re an early bird for walking, on occasion — find the bakeries and hit them as they’re opening … we found one just around the corner from our hotel and visited every morning about 5:30, when everything was just being pulled on HUGE spatula thingies from the ovens. And because we came back day after day, we were barraged with samples, one after the other, before being ALLOWED to make our selection! it was bliss, man, true story!
Enjoy!
Toni
Only you, MAM, could have such an experience and make it sound OK. 🙂 OMG, this is just the beginning, and already it’s terrific.
I’m so glad “we” made it to the apartment. What a great beginning adventure. I cat wait to see what’s next!
Oh holy hell – you are one brave kick ass girl, Mary Ann Moss! I was scared stiff, but in a delicious sort of way as I ride along here in your rolling tote baggage. Of course, I knew it would come out ok in the end, but oooohh, sent chills of the best kind up the spine! And just like a cozy mystery, there you are sipping your tea with your candles lit. Delicioso. The first day of travelling, as I’m sure you are more than well acquaint, is always the most confusing, rough and generally tear inducing. But what tales they do produce. So I hear you’re going to the Himalayas next? 😉 Love you! Have a good night and a better tomorrow.
i’m glad you have arrived…..sounds like a few anxious moments, but all is well.
can’t wait to see the apartment, and all of venice. sleep well.
Glad you made it safely! Glad to be along on this adventure.
ha ha! The adventure has begun. Agree – watch where you step. No gawking AND walking. You either gawk or walk, but not both. :o) I stepped off a pier in Hong Kong – one foot on the boat – the other entire leg caught between the dock and the boat. ha ha you might say …. your place looks cozy already. Tomorrow will be a wonderful day – – xoDonna
Oh joy, joy, joy….so glad you are safe and enjoying a cup of tea. Enjoy your rest, tomorrow will be a great day.
This is fun already, and its only just begun. You are a wonderful tour guide, Mary Ann. Thanks for the wonderful vicarious experience.
Geez, I was waiting for the part where you tripped over a dead body. Glad to know you arrived safe. Sweet dreams. FYI I am up in LA for a couple days and it is cold and fricken windy. Keep a tight grip on those sunglasses!
Che un sogno! Dormi bene mio viaggiatore incantevole. Fino a quando le avventure di domani 🙂
My attempts at rudimentary Italian… so exciting!!
Have a good rest! Looking forward to tomorrow’s explorations…this is fun already 🙂
Well you had me shaking in my boots, I’m glad the intrepid traveler made it safely to our apartment. I await with pleasure the next installment of the Venice adventures.
Love love love your words. Hopefully the sun will be shining brightly tomorrow!
Perfectly WONDERFUL already! How will I put this adventure down to sleep? I want to know what happens next. I turned the page to see more…..then wise whisper from the brave adventurer……sleep. So I will….try.
You are one brave girl Mary Ann..i would have been simply freaking out. Thank goodness you are fearsome and got us all safely to your apartment in one piece albeit with a blister or two perhaps from all that walking and a little less blue nail polished left on our fingers after all that nail biting suspence. Cant wait to see what morning brings. Love being here with you on your adventure. xxox
So glad you made it and are now safe and sound sipping tea in your Venetian apartment. What a wonder. The aerial photos are awesome.
I was in Venice in early november and know exactly your paths and that long long walk to the waterbus. It used to be closer before they rebuilt the airport. At my first visit the boats waited just outside the entrance.
Lovely to be back with you…..
you can find my pictures from Venice on my website
ingridpetriniskviltarochstygn.blogspot.com
Oh my gosh! I feel like I am right there with you…so very descriptive. Glad you arrived safely. Many blessings for some great discoveries and adventures in the days ahead! Hugs from me — land locked in central Ohio.
Girl reporter, I would have needed clean underwear , wow you are tough. Glad your there, loving our trip.
Mary Ann you are so awesome.
That is far better than being taken of the Orient Express in the middle of the night by the Balkan police with no English spoken and finally dumped on the Italian border on a wet rainy night.
Marvelous! I love how this story is unfolding–slowly, and under fog of night.
I can just tell this Venetian vacation is going to be an amazing adventure! Can’t wait for your next report! Have fun Mary Ann!
My sister and I did the same trip in reverse a couple of years ago, hurtling through the 4:30 a.m. darkness in a speeding water taxi, arriving at the airport dock with no escort in sight. We just started walking and luckily found our way to the airport doors. Brings back fond memories!
I am so excited!
Seriously , I don’t think I could have held in my
squeals of GLEE!
what a glorious adventure, this is exactly the time of year I’d want to be in Italy…Christmas time, I love the subtle decorations you’ve shown thus far. Your story telling is so, so wonderful. Blessings to you!
catching up. so busy.
the posts are JUST what i need for this lovely Christmas weekend.
about to go hit the shops, but can’t wait to see the vids.
your postcards make a person clap her hands in delight.
I love the festive colors of venice at the holiday.
Merry Christmas to you
I’ve been saving this for the first free moment I have had in the last few days. I wanted to savor it. I am reading your post about arriving and at the same time remembering my own arrival to Venice. It is so wonderful to read and share your experience and to remember mine at the same time. Thank you so very much for taking us with you, it is truly priceless. You are alone and with a crowd at the same time. Life is so very luscious!
For some insane reason either the photos, or the words, or a combination of both, made me tear up. How odd. No explanation, except that maybe some past life bell was rung.
I’m just getting started after what turned out to be a wacky. What a perfect, beautiful start to the trip. An arrival to remember for all time.